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Constituintes maioritários da água do mar (S=35)
Constituinte g kg-1
CatiõesSódio 10.77
Magnésio 1.30Cálcio 0.412
Potássio 0.399Estrôncio 0.008
AniõesCloreto 19.34Sulfato 2.71
Brometo 0.067
CarbonoCarbono inôrganico 0.023 (pH 8.4) - 0.027 (pH 7.8)
World ocean bathymetry World ocean bathymetry -- NOAANOAA
Batimetria doOceano
Atlântico
Plataforma larga
Crista média atlântica Plataforma
estreita
North Atlantic RidgeNorth Atlantic Ridge
Bathymetry profile obtained by theLamont-Doherty Earth Observatory
at Columbia Universityhttp://imager.ldeo.columbia.edu/ridgembs/
Características gerais do oceano
Camada quente
Província oceânica
Termoclina
Camada fria
Província nerítica
Plataformacontinental
Declivecontinental
z < 250m
Planície abissal
z ~4000m
T ~ 4oCS ~ 35
Pelagos
Bentos
Polar easterlies
Westerlies
Subtropical highs
Subtropical highs
Westerlies
Northeast trades
Intertropical convergence zone
Southeast trades
60o N
30o N
0o
30o S
NMajor wind systemsMajor wind systemsof the worldof the world
60o SPolar easterliesS
General subGeneral sub--surface circulation of the World surface circulation of the World OceanOcean
NorwegianSea
IcelandFaeroe Rise Sohm
Abyssal Plain
DemeraraAbyssal
PlainBrazilBasin
Rio GrandePlateau
ArgentineBasin
AmericanAntarticRidge
WeddellAbyssal Plain
Wed
dell
Sea
Antartic Bottom Water (Tmin)
Labrador
intermediate water
(Smin)
NA Central Water
SA Central Water
Antartic intermediate water (Smin)
North Atlantic Deep Water (Smax, Omax)
Permanent thermocline
60o N 40o N 20o N 0o 20o S 40o S 60o S 80o S0
1000
2000
3000
4000
5000
6000
Norwegian
overflow
Sea
Dep
th (m
)
Adapted from Dietrich et al., 1980 Adapted from Dietrich et al., 1980 -- General Oceanography: An General Oceanography: An IntroductionIntroduction
CoriolisCoriolis effecteffect• Coriolis parameter = 2Ω sin φWhere:
Ω = rate of angular rotation of the earthφ = latitude
• Coriolis acceleration = 2Ωv sin φWhere:
v = velocity
F=ma therefore:
• Coriolis force = 2Ωmv sin φWhere:
m = mass
Ocean circulation Ocean circulation -- 160 million years ago160 million years ago
Upwelling areasCurrents
Continental drift* http://earth.usc.edu/~stott/Catalina/Oceans.html
Ocean circulation Ocean circulation -- 100 million years ago100 million years ago
Continental driftCurrents http://earth.usc.edu/~stott/Catalina/Oceans.html
Ocean circulation Ocean circulation -- 30 million years ago30 million years ago
Continental driftCurrents http://earth.usc.edu/~stott/Catalina/Oceans.html
Global ocean Global ocean -- surface gyres surface gyres and temperaturesand temperatures
Surface currents in the global oceanSurface currents in the global ocean
Cold currentCold current Warm currentWarm current
Sea surface temperature Sea surface temperature -- NOAANOAA
Data in oC - COADS monthly climatology dataset (1946-1989)
Global ocean surface temperatureGlobal ocean surface temperature
December temperature (oC) December temperature (oC) -- Data from NOAAData from NOAA
Global ocean surface temperatureGlobal ocean surface temperature
July temperature (oC) July temperature (oC) -- Data from NOAAData from NOAA
North Atlantic gyreNorth Atlantic gyre
Flows in Sverdrup (1 Sv = 10Flows in Sverdrup (1 Sv = 1066 mm33 ss--11))
U.S.A.U.S.A.
Gulf stream Gulf stream currentcurrent
Temperature profile (oC)Temperature profile (oC)
Gulf stream current, showing ring formationGulf stream current, showing ring formation
Circulação geralCirculação geral do Mardo Mar MediterrâneoMediterrâneo
40o N
45o N
5o W
0o W
5o E10o E
15o E20o E
25o E30o E
35o E
1000m2000m3000m4000m
28oC 20oC 12oC 4oC
WindWind--driven surface currentsdriven surface currentsy
xWind dragWater drag
Coriolis
y
xWind drag
y
Water drag
Coriolis
Water drag
Coriolis
xWind drag
Forces
y
xv
y
x
v 45o
y
x
v
Watervelocity
EckmanEckman spiral spiral -- schematic representationschematic representationy
45o
z = 0
z = DEWind
x
Horizontal projection of currents at 11 equallyHorizontal projection of currents at 11 equally--spaced levels from the spaced levels from the surface to bottom of the Eckman layer (Dsurface to bottom of the Eckman layer (DEE))
EckmanEckman spiral spiral -- schematic representationschematic representation
WindSurface water
Wind force
FrictionDirection of
motion
Wind force
Direction of motion
Average flow
45o
GeostrophicGeostrophic balancebalanceContinental mass
N
Water current
Equator
Coriolis force
WindstressBalanced N-S wind stress
and S-N coriolis force
E
Upwelling areas at westerncontinental margin
S
CoastalCoastal upwellingupwelling -- vertical sectionvertical sectionFront
HH0
ρ1
ρ2 Ri D
H - Depth of waterRi - Rossby radiusD - Distance to shoreρ1 - Density of upper waterρ2 - Density of lower waterz - Depth
z
Mann & Lazier - Dynamics of Marine Ecosystems, Blackwell, 1991
CoastalCoastal upwellingupwelling -- plan viewplan view
y (west)
Front Coast
x (south)
Mann & Lazier - Dynamics of Marine Ecosystems, Blackwell, 1991
Azores FrontAzores Front55oN
2000m
4000m20
00m40
00m
2000
m4000
m
50o
45o
40o
35o
30o
25o
20o
70oW 60o 50o 40o 30o 20o 10o 5o
Data from Macedo et al, 1999
32.0 31.5 31.0 30.5 30.0 29.5 29.032.0
32.5
33.0
33.5
34.0
34.5
35.0
35.5
36.0
36.5
37.0
Depth (m)
Azores Front depth Azores Front depth contourscontours
Latit
ude
(º N
)
350
300
250
200
150
100
50
Longitude (º W) Data from Macedo et al, 1999
0 50 100 150 200 250 300 350 400
300
250
200
150
100
50
Depth
(m)
Distance (km)
1213141516171819202122232425
Temperature (ºC)North South
Temperature profile Temperature profile -- Azores Azores FrontFront
Data from Macedo et al, 1999
Salinity profile Salinity profile -- Azores Azores FrontFront
0 50 100 150 200 250 300 350 400
300
250
200
150
100
50
North
Distance (km)
Depth
(m)
South Salinity
36.836.736.636.536.436.336.236.136.035.935.835.7
Data from Macedo et al, 1999
Density profile Density profile -- Azores Azores FrontFront
0 50 100 150 200 250 300 350 400
300
250
200
150
100
50
Depth
(m)
North South Density
Distance (km)
24.224.424.624.825.025.225.425.625.826.026.226.426.626.827.0
Data from Macedo et al, 1999
Chlorophyll Chlorophyll aa profile profile -- Azores Azores FrontFront
0 50 100 150 200 250 300 350 400
Distance (km)
300
250
200
150
100
50
Depth
( m)
Chl a (mg m-3)North South
0.260.240.220.200.180.160.140.120.100.080.060.040.020.00
Data from Macedo et al, 1999
Vertical profiles for temperature, chlorophyll a Vertical profiles for temperature, chlorophyll a and nitrate and nitrate -- Azores FrontAzores Front
North South
Dep
th (m
)
Chlorophyll a (mg m-3)0 0.42
Nitrate (mmol m-3)0 0.5 1 1.5 2 2.5 3 3.5 40 0.5 1 1.5 2 2.5 3 3.5 4
Nitrate (mmol m-3)
Data from Macedo et al, 19992522402282162041921801681561441321201089684726048362412
0
NO3-
NO3-
TT
Chl a
Chl a
Temperature (ºC)0 250 Temperature (ºC) 25
0 0.42Chlorophyll a (mg m-3)
252240228216204192180168156144132120
9684726048362412
0
108
Tides and tide generating forcesTides and tide generating forces
To Sun
Quadrature
Syzygy
North pole
Sun
• Mass of the earth = 80X moon• Mass of sun = 27 X 106 moon• Sun-earth = 400X moon-earth
Tides and tide generating forcesTides and tide generating forcesModel for a daily tideModel for a daily tide
24h
Earth
Tidal bulge
MoonF = GMm
r2
Tides and tide generating forcesTides and tide generating forcesModel for a Model for a semisemi--diurnaldiurnal tidetide
Earth
29.5 days
Moon
Centre of rotationIs 1600km inside theearth (1/4 radius), andis the point about whichthe forces are balanced
Tides and tide generating forcesTides and tide generating forcesModel for Model for tidal delaytidal delay
Earth
Lunar orbit: 29.5 days
24h
Moon
Every day the moon moves approximately 360/30 degrees, i.e. 12o. The time on earth equivalent to 1 degree is 24 * 60 / 360 = 4 minutes, therefore the time lag is 12 * 4 = 48 minutes
Early tide gauges and prediction equipmentEarly tide gauges and prediction equipment
Tide gauge at Anchorage, Alaska Mechanical tide prediction machineNOAA website
Mechanical tide prediction equipmentMechanical tide prediction equipment
NOAA website
Tides in the real oceanTides in the real ocean
Types of constituents
• Semi-diurnal• Diurnal• Long-period• Over 20 constituents may be required for accurate prediction
4 most important constituents
Constituent Symbol Period
Lunar semi-diurnal M2 12.42hSolar semi-diurnal S2 12.00hLuni-solar diurnal K1 23.93hPrincipal lunar diurnal O1 25.82h
Tides for March 2000 Tides for March 2000 -- TejoTejo EstuaryEstuary
K1+O1 M2+S2
= 0.08
Data from OceanusTM - http://tejo.dcea.fct.unl.pt
Tides for March 2000 Tides for March 2000 -- Dublin BayDublin Bay
K1+O1 M2+S2
= 0.12
Data from OceanusTM - http://tejo.dcea.fct.unl.pt
Tides for March 2000 Tides for March 2000 -- DoDo--Son (Vietnam)Son (Vietnam)
K1+O1 M2+S2
= 18.9
Data from OceanusTM - http://tejo.dcea.fct.unl.pt
Tides for March 2000 Tides for March 2000 -- ManilaManila
K1+O1 M2+S2
= 2.15
Data from OceanusTM - http://tejo.dcea.fct.unl.pt
Tides for March 2000 Tides for March 2000 -- S. Francisco BayS. Francisco Bay
K1+O1 M2+S2
= 0.90
Data from OceanusTM - http://tejo.dcea.fct.unl.pt
Bay ofBay of FundyFundyExtreme tidal range (>16m max)Extreme tidal range (>16m max)
Low tide
High tide
TagusTagus estuary estuary -- Space shuttle imageSpace shuttle image
Caracterização geralCaracterização geral de umde umestuárioestuário
Limite debaixa-mar
Prisma de maréQ (m3 s-1)
Advecção& difusão Maré
Limite depreia-mar
Rio Oceano
Distribuição longitudinal de salinidade
Rio
510
2515
35
Oceano
Distribuição transversal de salinidade
Rio
510
2515
35
Secção transversal homogénea
Oceano
Distribuição transversal de salinidade
Rio
510
2515
35
Estratificação transversal
Oceano
Distribuição vertical de salinidade
Rio
Estratificação vertical
S
Haloclina
25 355 10 15
Oceano
Z (m) Coluna de água homogénea
Surface
0 10 20 km
GIS GIS -- SalinitySalinityTagusTagus estuaryestuarySummer Winter
0 10 20 km
Surface Summer Salinity (psu)
Bottom Winter Salinity (psu)
0 10 20 km
Bottom
0 10 20 km
GIS GIS -- SalinitySalinityTagusTagus estuary estuary -- SummerSummer
Surface
0 10 20 km
Bottom
0 10 20 km
Salinity (psu)
Surface - Bottom
0 10 20 km
Surface - BottomSalinity (psu)
GIS GIS -- SalinitySalinityTagusTagus estuary estuary -- WinterWinter
Surface Salinity (psu)
0 10 20 km
Bottom
0 10 20 km
Surface - Bottom
0 10 20 km
Surface - BottomSalinity (psu)
Salt wedge estuary
ClassificaçãoClassificação dede estuários estuários de Hansen &de Hansen & RattrayRattrayδS
S
UUs
f
3b1b
1a3a
2b
2a
Indi
cede
estr
atifi
caçã
o
Hansen & Rattray, 1966 - Limnology & Oceanography 11, 319-326
100
10-1
10-2
102101
Indice de circulação
DiagramaDiagrama dede diluição esquemáticodiluição esquemático-- SódioSódio --
Na+
(uni
dade
s ar
bitr
ária
s)
JusanteMontante
126 Cl-
DiagramaDiagrama dede diluição esquemáticodiluição esquemático-- CálcioCálcio --
Ca2
+ (u
nida
des
arbi
trár
ias)
Cl-
JusanteMontante
126
DiagramaDiagrama dede diluição esquemáticodiluição esquemático-- SílicaSílica ((invernoinverno) ) --
SiO
2 (µ
mol
l-1 )
JusanteMontante
126 Cl-
DiagramaDiagrama dede diluição esquemáticodiluição esquemático-- SílicaSílica (primavera/(primavera/verãoverão) ) --
SiO
2 (µ
mol
l-1 )
JusanteMontante
126 Cl-
DiagramaDiagrama dede diluição esquemáticodiluição esquemático-- NitratoNitrato (primavera/(primavera/verãoverão) ) --
NO
3- (µm
ol l-
1 )
JusanteMontante
126 Cl-
Salinidade
NO
3- (µm
ol l-
1 )
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40
Montante
DiagramaDiagrama dede diluiçãodiluiçãoEstuárioEstuário dodo Tejo Tejo -- Nitrato
JusanteNitrato
JusanteN
O3- (
µmol
l-1 )
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
140
0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40
Montante
DiagramaDiagrama dede diluiçãodiluiçãoEstuárioEstuário dodo Guadiana Guadiana -- NitratoNitrato
Salinidade
DiagramaDiagrama dede diluição esquemáticodiluição esquemático-- FerroFerro dissolvidodissolvido --
Fe (m
g l-1
)
JusanteMontante
126 Cl-
DiagramaDiagrama dede diluição esquemáticodiluição esquemático-- Azoto amoniacalAzoto amoniacal --
NH
4+(µ
mol
l-1 )
Vila de CimaVila de baixo
JusanteMontante
126 Cl-
Jusante
Salinidade
NH
4+(µ
mol
l-1 )
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40
Montante
DiagramaDiagrama dede diluiçãodiluiçãoEstuárioEstuário dodo TejoTejo -- Azoto amoniacalAzoto amoniacal
Jusante
Salinidade
NH
4+(µ
mol
l-1 )
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40
Montante
DiagramaDiagrama dede diluiçãodiluiçãoEstuárioEstuário dodo SadoSado -- Azoto amoniacalAzoto amoniacal
Surface area to volume ratio (sinking rates)Surface area to volume ratio (sinking rates)Sea surface
1mm cubesurface area = 6mm2
volume = 1mm3
surface area = 6volume
Fall velocity
W=2 g(D-d)r2
9 u
10mm cubesurface area = 600mm2
volume = 1000mm3
surface area = 0.6volume
Relationshipbetween forces
Re=udv
z (depth)
Reynolds number for different organisms
Organism Re
Large whale (10 ms-1) 300 000 000Tuna (10 m s -1) 30 000 000Duck flying (20 ms -1) 300 000Dragonfly (7 m s -1) 30 000Copepod in a pulse of 20 cm s -1 300Smallest flying insects 30Invertebrate larva 0.3mm long at 1 mm s -1 0.3Sea urchin sperm advancing the species at 0.3 mm s -1 0.03
Vogel, S, 1981 - Life in moving fluids. The physical biology of flow. Willard Grant Press, Boston, 352 pp.
Re = ud/v (2500 ~ threshold between laminar and turbulent flow)
Re = 1.4 X 106 d 1.86
Relationship between length and swimming speed u (m s-1) = 1.4 X d 0.86 (kinematic viscosity = 10-6 m2 s-1)
Relação entreRelação entre oocomprimentocomprimentoe oe o númeronúmero de de
ReynoldsReynolds10 comprimentos s-1 1 comprimento s-1
Re = 1.4 X 106 d 1.86
Log
núm
ero
de R
eyno
lds
(Re)
Log comprimentoComprimento
MamíferosPeixesAnfípodesZooplânctonProtozoáriosFitoplânctonBactériasHomem
-6
-4
-2
0
2
4
6
8
-6 -4 -2 0 21 µm 100 µm 1 m1 cm 100 m
The length scaleThe length scale11µµmm--100000km100000km
Largestwhale Mean depth
of the oceanFish
Zooplankton Internal Rossbyradius
Mixed-layerdepth
Diffusionlimitation
PhytoplanktonOcean basin
Bacteria
1µm 1cm 1m 1km 1000km10-6 10-4 10-2 100 102 104 106 108
Mann & Lazier, Dynamics of Marine Ecosystems, Blackwell 1991
Amostragem Euleriana
A B C D
Amostragem EulerianaAmostragem Euleriana
∫ V dt = h/3 (y0+4y1+2y2+...+4yn-1+yn)
Velocidade máximade vazante
Velocidade máximade enchente
t (s)
V (ms-1)Estofo deBM e PM
0
0 200 400 600
Actual period-1.5
-1
-0.5
0
0.5
1
1.5
800
Sampling window
Actual period is double the apparent period
Apparent period
Sampling period and actual Sampling period and actual periodperiod
Sampling frequency and event Sampling frequency and event occurrenceoccurrence
Event
12Month
0 102 4 6 8Sampling occasions
Event occurs every 3 months (seasonally), but appears to occur every six months